Process oe and means eob



March 27; 1928. 1,664,023

E. COULSON PROCESS OF AND MEANS FOR FERMANENTLY WAVING HAIR Filed Feb. 26. 1926 Patented ,,Mar. 27, 1928.

UNITED STATES EDWARD GOULSON, 0]? LOS ANGELES, CALIFORNIA.

PROCESS OF AND MEANS FOR IERMANENTLY WAVING HAIR.

Application filed February 26, 1926. Serial No. 90,729.

My invention relates to a novel process of and means for permanently waving and treating hair.

' Little difficulty is experienced in waving hair so that the wave will remain in the hair for a very considerable period of time and when done the wave is put in as close to the scalp as possible. The hair grows fairly rapidly, the average normal rate of growth being perhaps about one-half inch per month. In the course of a few months there is a substantial growth of new unwaved hair between the scalp and that portion previously waved. In the process of permanently waving hair a softening agent, such as borax in powdered or crystal form, is used in the presence of steam or vapor to condition the hair so it can be distorted from the natural formation to the desired shape. It is well known that the process of perinanently waving hair cannot be carried out on the same hair more than once without effecting considerable injury to the hair by making it brittle and easily broken; consequently, it is usually necessary to permit the hair to grow sufficiently to yield an entirely new growth of hair where the wave is desired before a new permanent wave can be safely put in, and during this time more and more of the straight new growth of hair appears which must be waved frequently with a curling iron or other means to make it harmonize in appearance with the old growth of permanently waved hair. objects of my invention to provide a novel process of permanently waving hair which is carried out in such a way that a permanent wave can be put in the new growth. rcgardless of its length, whenever desired and without any injurious effects to the older growth of the previously. permanently waved hair. To this end the hair, including the new growth and the older growth previously permanently waved, is wound on a curler in the ordinary way; a saturated pad carrying a hair softening agent in quantity and over an area thereof to suit the new growth of unwaved hair is then placed about the hair on the curler in such manner that the area carrying the hair softening agent is adjacent the new growth of unwavcd hair only; then a wrapper of moisture or apor confining material is placed about the pad and finally the whole is subjected to the action of heat. Frequently the hair grows more rapidly on some parts of the head than It is one of the.

on other parts and my new process makes it entirely possible to use the correct amount of hair softening agent on the proper area of the pad to suit best the needs of the particular tress of hair on the curler to which the particular pad is to be applied.

It is another object of my invention to improve the condition and appearance of the hair, particularly the old growth of permanently waved hair, at the same time the new growth is being permanently waved and to this end I preferably saturate the pad with a solution for treating the hair consisting of ingredients suitable for the purpose. The steam or vapor generated by the action of the heat on the solution absorbed in the pad not only produces the desired chemical reaction with the hair softening agent for permanently waving the new growth of hair but it also improves the condition and appearance of the entire tress of hair and the effect is particularly noticeable on the older growth of the previously, permanently waved hair.

The pads commonly used heretofore in connection with hair waving means have been, objectionable because they have retained excessive moisture which necessitates an excessive amount of time for completing the hair waving operation and increases the likelihood of moisture reaching the scalp and causing discomfiture, if not considerable pain. The old pads are objectionable also because of the fact that their structure is such that they are incapable of continued use, or of giving etficient service in making more than one curl, thus the cost of the pads has been high. Additional objects of my invention areto provide a pad capable of retaining just enough moisture for genera-ting the proper amount of steam. or vapor necessary for curling the hair, thereby eliminating the danger of any excess moisture reaching the scalp, and also Shortening the time for the hair waving operation; to provide a pad wherein the composition and construction are such as to permit of its etlicient use in making several curls, thereby reducing the. cost of the waving operations; and to construct a pad that will be inexpensive to manufacture and handle in use, and, at the same time, efficient and practical in its operation.

The covering tube heretofore used in connection with the pad for confining about the hair the steam or vapor generated, is

stiff and has to be moistened sutiieiently on the end adjacent the scalp to enable it to be folded or ci'iinped and fastened closely about the tress of hair to prevent the escape of moisture or steam to the scalp. The use of such tubes and inoistening the ends thereof are objectionable for various reasons, for example the tubes come only in stock sizes andoitentirnes they do not lit about the par ticular tresses of hair to the best advantage; if the ends of the tubes are not moistened enough, the tubes are too stitl to be criinpcd tightly and properly about the hair to prevent leakage, thus causing burns to the scalp; and if the ends of the tubes are moistened too much, the material of the tubes becomesweakened to such extent that the strings or clips used to fasten the tubes closely about the hair are likely to cut through the tubes, thereby causing; leakage and burns to the scalp. Further objects of my invention are-to provide an. arrangement wherein the tube, as such, will be eliminated and instead, an outer wrapper in sheetlike form of suitable material, used whereby the pad and wrapper can be readily arranged to the best advantage around the particular tress of 'hair under treatment; and to provide an arrangement of the pad covering, inner and outer wrapper such that sufficient moisture will be applied automatically tortho scalp-end of the outer wrapper to permit it to be fastened tightly about the tress of hair under treatment.

A preferred embodiment oi. the invention is illustrated in the accompanying drawings and hereinafter specifically described. 'llhat which I believe to be new and desire to secure by Letters Patent is set forth in the appended claims.

In the drawings,-

Fig. 1 is a vertical sectional view of hair waving means embodying the principles of iny invention and suitable for carrying out my improved process;

Fig. 2 is a perspective view illustrating the steps of treating the pads preparatory to the waving operation;

Fig. 3 is a face view of the pad, inner wrapper and outer wrapper showing; the parts assembled. in their relative positions preparatory to receiving the curler andhair, and to being wound thereon, certain oi? the parts being broken away to show more clearly the relative positions of the various ele- Inents; and

Fig. 4 is a transverse sectional view, taken neeapaa hair waving and treading operation, a pad 9 is provided which comprises a pliable, absorbent, fibrous, inoistlire-retaining body 10 of suitable material, preferably, asbestos pulp. A covering 11, preteral'ily of loosely woven fabric such as cheese cloth. gauze or the like, is folded around the body 10 and has its overlapping; edges secured to the body by a line of stitching 152 as clearly shown in l? 3 and l. The relative sizes and positions of the covering;- 11 andv the body 10 preferably are such that one open end of the covering will l c substantially even with one edge oi the body, as indicated at 13 in F 3, while the opposite end of the covering; extends beyond the adjacent edge the body, L indicated at'l l, for purposes hereinafter descriaed.

For confining; the steam or vapor generah ed from the moisture contained in the pad about the hair under treatment, an. inner wrapper 15 is provided, which comprises pr ably a sheet oi suitable ll'iOlfitUIG proof material 16 such, for example, as cellophane glass, and a sheet of paper of suitable weight and texture preferably folded upon. itself over the material 16 to form the plies 1? and 18 on opposite sides of said material. The material 16 preferably is secured to the sheet of paper adjacent its folded portion by a suitable adhesive.

To aid further in conti; the steam or vapor about the hair, a sheet-like cover member or outer wrapper 19 preferably employed. 'lhis wrapper is ot any suitable material such as paper of a strong texture capable of being wrapped with and of holding the inner wrapper and pad liru'ily shout the hair to be curled, The relative sizes and positions ot the pad and the inner and outer wrappers are shown in Fig.1. 3. lt will be noted that a portion of the outer wrapper overlies the extended pad cover; ing portion 14:. That part oi? the outer wrapper overly a the pad crweriu pOlljiOlfl. 1 iabsorbs moisture therefrom thus conditioning the scalp-end of the wrapper to be crimped and. secured with the extended 1 portion 14; closely around "the tr in a manner to prevent escape of iron] that end ot the tubelilre structure thus formed. The wra tlpers are preferably cured together in the d red relatio by an adhesive substance die ed as cated by the heavy line 20 in l i.

in carrying out the process oi my invention, the head of hair to be waved is divided into l on the curlers t 'esses which are uw'uu'io and tastened thereto, res-:peetivcl in the usual manner, protective shields 21 of suitableniatel'al. such as felt being placed over the respective trerses of hair close to the scalp shown in i 1. Ordinarily "from to 4:0 curlers are used on a head of hair. The pads 9, equal in inunber to the number of curlers used on the head of hair to be waved, are placed in a stack 22 in a vessel 23 and a liquid solution is poured thereover to saturate thoroughly each individual pad in the stack. The solution used by me for saturating the pads preferably contains oils, ammonia and other ingredients useful in restoring the luster and vitality of the hair. After the pads have been thoroughly saturated with the hair treating solution, they are removed from the vessel. compressed in the hands to eliminate the excess liquid and are disposed in stacked relation in some place convenient for the operator. A pad is then taken up by the operator and a proper quantity of a suitable hair softening agent, such as borax in crystal or powdered form, is externally applied to a preselected area thereof as shown at the right of Fig. 2. The pad is then placed on the inner and outer wrappers as shown in Fig. 3 and these elements are then wound around the tress of hair on a curler substantially as shown in Fig. 1. The moisture present in the extended pad covering portion l t supplies sutlicient moisture to that portion of the outer wrapper 19 which overlies the portion 14: to permit said portion of the outer wrapper to be readily crimped with the portion 1i closely about the tress of hair adjacent the scalp; said portions are secured tightly about the tress of hair by any suitable fastening means, a clip 24; of the construction described in my Patent No. 1328322, being shown for this purpose in Fig. 1. The outer end of the sheet of cellophane glass 16 together with the outer end of the wrapper 19 are crimped over the outer end of the curler in the de sired manner to control the confinement of the steam or vapor about the hair. This is a matter that can be regulated by the operator as seems most. desirable. At 25 on the inner face of the outer wrapper a quantity of adhesive. is applied so that the corner of the wrapper can be drawn around and secured to the body of the wraper in the desired position. After the pads and wrappers have been applied to the respective tresses of hair in the manner described, the heaters are applied thereover in the usual manner. One form of heater 26 is shown in Fig. 1 in position about the wrapped tress of hair. In Fig. 1 of the drawing no attempt has been made to show all the respective laminations of the pad and the inner and outer wrappers as these elements would actually appear when rolled around the hair and the curler as above described. The ref erence characters have been applied in Fig. l to the several elements in the same manner as they have been applied in Fig. 3.

It will be apparent that my process is readily adapted for initially putting in a permanent wave to a head of hair, in which case the hair softening agent will be applied some previous time.

to substantially the entire inner surface of the pads 9 so that all the hair on the curler will be waved. The advantages of my improved process are most apparent in permanently waving the new growth on a head of hair which has been permanently waved at some prior time. This will be clearly understood if we assume that the hair on the curler t3 embraced by the bracket 27 is of new growth and unwaved and that the portion embraced by the bracket 28 is of older growth and has been permanently waved at It will be noted that approximately one-half the hair on the curler 6 is of new growth. As heretofore explained, it is highly desirable to avoid retreating the hair which has been permanently waved at some previous time with the hair softening agent. The operator can readily distinguish the new growth of unwaved hair from the older growth of waved hair when the tress is wound on the curler. In applying the hair softening agent to the pad to be placed around a particular tress of hair, the operator applies the hair softeniug agent to the pad over such an area thereof that, when the pad is placed about the wound hair on the curler, only that portion of the pad carrying the hair softening agent will be disposed next to the new growth of unwaved hair. In this way it will readily be seen that by the use of pads adapted to have the hair softening agent externally applied thereto, the pads may be prepared in a manner bestsuited for the respective tresses of wound hair. It is well known that the hair grows more rapidly on some parts of the head than on other parts and this fact is taken into consideration by the operator in applying the hair softening agent to the pads for the respective tresses of hair. Furthermore, there is considerable difference in the texture of various heads of hair. Hair of line texture requires a larger amount of the hair softening agent to condition it properly for a permanent wave than hair of a coarser texture. Here again my new process enables an operator to take this fact into consideration in applying the propeamount of the hair softening agent to the pads. It. will be apparent that my process readily enables an operator to put in a wave on a head of hair which has been waved at some previous time or which is entirely straight in a scientitic manner best suited to the particular head of hair. The process makes it possible for a patron to have the new growth of hair waved at any time and without any injurious effects to the older growth of hair, thereby making it possible for the patron to keep her hair dressed in the most attractive manner with practically no bother or trouble and without resorting to the use of ordinary curling irons or other make-shift devices.

till

The hair treating solution used in saturating the pads not only supplies sutlicient moisture for producing the chemical reaction with the boraz; necessary for perinanently waving the hair but the vapor or steam generated has a very beneficial eiiect on the hair and this 18 particularly true as to that part of the hair on the curler which has been we ed at some previous time. lt gives the hair a lustrous apparauce at the same time the hair is being pmrmanently waved.

A pad oi the construction. described herein is etiicicnt, durable and capable oil? carrying a suitable hair tree 2g solution for generating the proper amount of steam or vapor-ant. for carrying a suitable quantity of the hair sottening agent. The pad highly etiicient and practical for the pur pose intended. It is be noted that the pad will not disintegrate or crumble readily. It is of such a structure that-it may be saturated repeatedly with hair treating solution and used for seve l hair 'aviug operations. llo excess nio is carried by the pad and hence there not an excessive amount: of steam or r por e rated and the likelihood. of the scalp being burned on this account is minimized. l urthermorc when there is not an excessive amount of Vapor or steam generated the time required for putting in the wave is reduced to a minimum.

The arrangement of the inner and outer wrappers makes itfeasible for the operator to control the escape oi? the steam or vapor generated from the outer end oi the tubelike structure. The arrangement is such that a. tube may in client be built around the curler to suit best the particular tress of hair thereon, all of which lends itself: to a. scientific waving and treatment ot the hair.

l v hile I prefer to employ the form. ot pad. and the form of inner and outer wrappers illustrated in the drawing and as above doseribed, it will be understood. that do not intend to be limited to such specific terms or structures, except only as they may be specifically claimed, since it is evident that changes may be made therein without departing from the spirit of my invention.

I claim:

1. in the herein described process or perniai'iently *aving hair, the steps of winding a tress of hair on a curler, saturating a pad, applying a hair softening agent externally to the wet pad, placing the pad carrying the hair softening agent around the wound hair, applying vapor or moisture confining means about the pad, and then subjecting the hair and pad to the action of heat, for the purpose specified.

2. in the herein described process of permanently waving hair, "the steps of winding a tress of hair on a curler, saturatin a pa d,

applying a hair softening agent in powdered or crystal form externally to the wet pad, placing the pad carrying the hair sot-- toning agent around the wound hair, applying vapor or moisture confining means about the pad, and then subjecting the hair and pad to the action of heat, for the purpose specified.

3. ln the herein described process of per-- hair, the steps of winding a tress oi unwired and waved hair on a curler, apply- :ing to pad a hair softening agent in qualtity and over an area thereof to suit the new growth of unwaved hair, placing the pad around the wound hair so that the area. car rying the hair softening agent is adjacent the new growth oil unwaved hair only, applying vapor or moisture confining. means about the pad, and then subjecting the hair and pad to the action or heat, for the purpose specified.

4-. in the herein described process of permanently waving a new growth of straight hair i ithout rewaving the previously waved .ul, the steps oi winding a tress of un waved and waved hair on a curler, saturating a pad, applying to the wet pad a hair softening agent in quantity and over an area thereof to suit the new growth of unwaved hair, placing the pad around the wound hair so tha the area carrying the hair softening agent- .18 adjacentthe new growth of unwaved hair only, applying vapor or moisturc confining means about the pad, and then subjecting the hair and pad to the ac tion of heat, for the purpose specified.

5. ln the herein described process of permanently waving a. new growth of straight hair without rewaving the previously waved hair, the steps of winding a tress of unwaved and waved hair on a curler, saturating a pad, applying externally to the wet pad a hair softening agent in powdered or crystal form and in quantity and over an area thereof to suit the new growth of unwaved hair, placing the pad around the wound. hair so that the area carrying the hair softening agent is adjacent the new growth ot unwaved hair only, applying vapor or moisture confining means about the pad, and then subjecting the hair and pad to the action of heat, for the purpose speci tied.

6. in the herein described process of permanently waving hair, the steps of winding tress of hair on av curler. saturating a pad consisting of a body of absorbent material having an absorbent covering which at one side extends a substantial distance beyond the body, applying a hair softening agent externally to the wet pad, placing the" pad carrying the hair softening agent around the wound hair with the extended portion of the ma; ently waving new growth. of straight. hair withoutrewaving the previously waved.

' pad covering adjacent the scalp, applying an inner wrapper of vapor or moisture confining material about the body portion of the pad, applying an outer wrapper about the inner wrapper so that the edge thereof adjacent the scalp is substantially even with the corresponding edge of the pad covering, and then placing a heater about the hair, pad and the aforesaid wrappers, for the purpose specified.

7 In the herein described process of permanently waving hair. the steps of winding a tress of hair on a curler, saturating a pad consisting of a body of absorbent material having an absorbent covering which at one side extends a substantial distance beyond the body, applying a hair softening agent externally to the wet pad, placing. the pad carrying the hair softening agent around the wound hair with the extended portion of the pad covering adjacent the scalp, applying an inner wrapper of vapor or moisture confining material about the body portion of the pad, applying an outer sheet-like wrapper about the inner wrapper so that the edge thereof adjacent the scalp is substantially even with the corresponding edge of the pad covering, securing the scalp-end or inner end of the outer wrapper and the extended pad covering portion closely about the hair to prevent the escape of steam or vapor, and then placing a heater about the hair, pad and the aforesaid wrappers, the outer end of the outer wrapper being socured about the hair in a manner to control the amount of steam or vapor maintained about the hair during the treatment or waving process.

8. In means for waving hair, the combination of a saturated pad of absorbent material having a hair softening agent externally applied thereto and adapted to be placed about a tress of hair on a curler, and a Wrapper of vapor or moisture confining material adapted to be wrapped around the pad, for the purpose specified.

9. In means for waving hair, the combination of a pad of absorbent material having a hair softening agent applied to a preselected portion only thereof and adapted to be placed about a tress of hair on a curler, and a wrap or of vapor or moisture confin ing material adapted to be wrapped around the pad, for the purpose specified.

10. In means for waving hair, the combination of a pad of absorbent material having a hair softening agent in powdered or crystal form applied to a preselected portion only thereof and adapted to be placed about a tress of hair on a curler, and a wrapper of vapor or moisture confining material adapted to be wrapped around the pad, for the purpose specified.

11. In means for waving hair, the combination of a pad of absorbent material saturated with a hair treating solution and having a hair softening agent externally applied thereto, said pad being adapted to be placed about a tress of hair on a curler, and a wrapper of vapor or moisture confining material adapted to be wrapped around the pad, :tor the purpose specified.

12. In means for waving hair, the combination of a pad of absorbent material having a hair softening agent externally applied to a preselected portion only of the surface thereof, said pad eing adapted to be placed about a tress of hair on a curler, and a wrapper of vapor or moisture confining material adapted to be wrapped around the pad, for the purpose specified.

13. In means for waving hair, the combination of a pad of absorbent material saturated with a hair treating solution and having a hair softening agent in powdered 01 crystal form externally applied to a preselected portion only of the surface thereof, said pad being adapted to be placed about a tress of hair on a curler, and a wrapper of vapor or moisture confining material adapted to be wrapped around the pad, for the purpose specified.

l-l. In means for waving hair, the combination of a saturated pad comprising a sheet-like body of absorbent material having an absorbent covering which at one side extends a substantial distance beyond the body,

said pad carrying a hair softening agent and being adapted to be placed about a tress of hair on a curler with the extended portion of the pad covering adjacent the scalp, an inner wrapper of vapor or moisture confining material placed about the body portion of the pad, an outer sheet-like wrapper placed about the inner wrapper so that the edge thereof adjacent the scalp is substantially even with the corresponding edge of the pad covering, and means for securing the outer wrapper over the extended portion of the pad covering closely about the hair, for the purpose specified.

15. In means for waving hair, the combination of a saturated pad comprising a sheet-like body of absorbent material having an absorbent covering which at one side extends a substantial distance beyond the body, said pad carrying a hair softening agent and being adapted to be placed about a tress of hair on a curler with the extended portion of the pad covering adjacent the scalp, an inner wrapper of vapor or moisture confining material placed about the body portion of the pad, an outer sheet-like wrapper placed about the inner wrapper so that the edge thereof adjacent the scalp is substantially even with the corresponding edge of the pad covering, means for securing the scalp end or inner end of the outer wrapper over the extended portion of the pad covering closely about the hair, and means for Inn body, said Pflfl carrying a hair softening ngent zindjbeing adapted to be placed about tress oil hair on :L curler with the extended portion of the pad covering adjacent the scalp, on inner 'Wi'tLPPUI' o'l vapor or moisture confining 'u'iuterial placed about the body portion of the pad, an outer elicet-lil-ze wrapper placed about the inner wrapper so that the edge thereof adjacent the scalp is; sub stuntielly even with the corresponding; edge of the pad covering, means for securing the scalp end or inner end of the outer wra'g iper over the extended portion ot' the ud coverin cloeely about the liziir, and adhesive means carried on the outer wrapper at its opposite end for securing said be t-named end of the wrapper about the trees of hair in the desired relation, for the purpose specified.

17. In means for waving hair in a tubular heater, the combination of an absorbent pad adapted to be wound when wet directly eee eee about a trees of hair, an inner Wrapper-of moisture-proof materiel wound about said pad with a small portion of the pad unwrapped adjacent to the fiCfllP, and an outer wrapper of ebr' orbent inu eriul wound about said inner member and the exposed port-ion oi the purl adopted when criinped about the end portion of the pad to be iuoi itened thereby to assist in obtaining it tight closure thereabout.

18. In nieunstor waving huir in a tubular heater, the combination. of an inner Wrapper or moiriture-proott material and an outer wrapper ot absorbent material secured in face contract therewith with one edgeprojecting some little distance beyond the corresponding edge of the inner Wrapper.

19. in means; for weving'hair inn tubular heater the combination of a sheet of fibrous nieteriel folded upon itself, a sheet of moisiQ-lJSO-QYOOi materiel between the plies of the fibrous material. end an outer wrapper of absorbent n'uiteriel eecured in face contact with suid sheet of fibrous n'uiteriul with one of its edges even with the folded edge of said first nun-led sheet and with on. edge ed jaccnt thereto i rojecting some little distance beyond the corresponding edge of the first named sheet.

EDWARD CQULSON, 

